Doin’ it Lockhart Style in the OC
While patrons were lined up at Oddfellows for noon brunch on a beautiful Fall Saturday, we (wife, 18-month-old son, and I) were able to walk right up to the counter at Lockhart Smokehouse, just down the road. Chef Tim McLaughlin, who spent some time learning from the pit boss at Lockhart’s Kreuz Market, was even there to greet us and explain the menu.
Some Lockhart Smokehouse History
The restaurant’s co-owner, Jill Bergus, has Lockhart barbecue in her family lineage. Her grandfather, Edgar Schmidt, operated Kreuz Market from 1948 until his sons took ownership in 1984.
Despite living in Central Texas for 16 years, I never visited Kreuz Market. The only Lockhart BBQ joint I’ve ever tried is Black’s Barbecue, and it was quite good…but not as good (in my humble opinion) as some of the best meat shacks in Austin. So, we went to Lockhart Smokehouse without any expectations.
Clod, Brisket, and Kreuz Original Sausage
We started with a half pound of shoulder clod (a leaner and beefier cut) and one sausage. In addition, we ordered sides of mac n’ cheese and tomato/cucumber salad.
I found the clod lacking in flavor, necessitating the use of sauce. The sausage was okay, but not as juicy as I expected. So far, I was enjoying the side items better than the meats. Could this be? Would I be able to — with my no bad review policy — blog about this place?
What was I even thinking getting the shoulder clod? Why do I sometimes go against my better judgement like that? So I went back to the counter and ordered a fourth pound of brisket and peach cobbler.
If you want your brisket with bark (delicious rub) at Lockhart Smokehouse, you’ll have to contend with a little bit of fat to go along with the lean, but that’s not such a bad thing. The brisket was out of this world good — good crust, yummy meat, and succulent fat.
The meat fest left us with overstuffed tummies, so we brought the peach cobbler home. After a 30 minute reprieve, the wife and I polished off the cobbler without complaint.
Things have changed at Lockhart Smokehouse since it first opened in early 2011. They’ve softened their “no forks, no sauce” stance and seemed to have added some side items since their website was last updated. I’m not sure it’s the best overall barbecue I’ve had, but it may well be the best brisket in town.
Lockhart Smokehouse is located 400 West Davis St., Dallas, Texas 75208 (at Bishop Ave.). For more info, visit their website at www.LockhartSmokehouse.com